Meet the Makers: Eirlie Chisholm from OverAll 1516

How would you describe Over all 1516?

Over All 1516 is a fashion and lifestyle brand, founded on the simplicity and practicality of ethically made dungarees. It has now expanded to merge the world of streetwear with traditional skills like mending, slow fashion, conscious consumption and natural fibres. My hope is that together we can build a gentler, healthier world through our clothes.

What was your journey to setting up Over All 1516?

I started Over All 1516 as a newly single mum to two children under two. They were wearing cloth reusable nappies & I couldn’t find anything stylish and durable that fit over their chunky bottoms and were suitable for day to day exploring our gritty local playgrounds in East London. I studied fashion design at college and had worked in the industry for over 10 years, so I guess it was a bit of a natural progression to start my own brand. I chose to develop my own unisex denim overalls as I felt they were the perfect, easy and durable wardrobe staple that every child should own, plus a low maintenance garment that can be layered up in winter and stripped back in summer. 

Who or what is your top design inspiration?

I get a lot of inspiration and visual satisfaction from architecture and the built environment. I avoid looking at fashion trends, though I’m sure subconsciously I absorb inspiration from what’s happening around me. In general, my inspiration comes from providing function in a useful, slightly different way i.e. dungarees with a playful signature silhouette to fit cloth nappies. I do love looking to old workwear and uniforms for interesting details, as well as vintage pieces.

Why is it important to you that your collections are unisex?

From a practical perspective, children’s bodies are essentially the same proportions and can, therefore, fit into the same clothes from birth until around puberty. So there is no functional need for the gender division in clothing. This is what a lot of independent brands are aware of, which is why we are seeing the rise of small, forward-thinking gender-free kids labels, who listen and adapt to the needs of the consumer. I’m also against saying that an item is for one person and not another, clothing should exist to empower and encourage personal expression and choice, not as a means of restriction. 

How is sustainability and ethics important to Over All 1516 ?

Sustainability and ethics have completely shaped my business. When I started, I had a lot of people tell me I should make my garments in Turkey or Portugal as it would be so much cheaper. I’ve always felt passionate about keeping production local, for the fact that I can see how garments are being made, and the conditions of the workers, whilst also to keeping the local industry going. I’m not opposed to manufacturing abroad, but I wouldn’t make the decision to do so a purely profit-based one. 

I made the decision in late 2019 to stop producing garments until I sourced a more sustainable alternative fabric to the 100% cotton denim I was currently using. I spent nearly 6 months exploring different options, from organic cotton to hemp, and I eventually landed on a new, incredibly sustainable technology called pre-consumer waste denim, and then spent another 4 months sourcing the right mill to make it. Every decision I make, from product ideas & thread selection to packaging & transport is founded on “is this necessary, and if so, how can I do it in the most non-destructive way possible”.  

What’s on your Christmas wishlist this year?

I’ve been daydreaming about owning some Swansy print pyjamas from Bath-based brand, Sleepy Doe for about 6 months. It’s summer here at Christmas time so they wouldn’t be the most practical gift. Also, I’d love a caravan, my current dream is to renovate one in a completely non-caravan like way, and travel around Australia in it with my children. Do you think Santa reads Sonshine?! 

What are you most looking forward to for Over All 1516 in 2020?

In early 2020 I’ll be setting up my very own manufacturing studio here in rural Australia which is extremely exciting. It means that I’ll soon have the capacity to produce more garments and do so in a streamlined way which opens up so many possibilities. I’m aiming to run some sewing workshops in the UK and Australia, as well as online, and if things go really smoothly I might even get to have a pop-up shop in Japan - just putting that one out into the universe! 

Find out more about Over All 1516

Find out more about Eirlie at her website https://overall1516.com or on Instagram @Overall1516

Eirlie has also contributed her tips for sustainable gifting this Christmas in this issue. You can download the first two chapters of her ethical shopping guide for free by signing up to her mailing list

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See All in Issue 8